The hook
A ravishing walled colonial city on the Caribbean, all balconied mansions dripping with bougainvillea, cobbled plazas, and golden churches within massive stone ramparts, once the treasure port of the Spanish Main.
01Why it's worth it
Cartagena was the great fortified port through which Spain shipped the plundered silver and gold of South America, and to protect that wealth from pirates it built enormous defensive walls and forts, which still ring the old town today. Inside them lies one of the most beautiful colonial cities in the Americas: a romantic maze of narrow streets lined with brightly-painted mansions, their wooden balconies spilling flowers, opening onto shaded plazas, ornate churches, and buzzing squares that come alive in the evening cool with music, street food, and dancing. The adjacent Getsemaní district, once rough, is now a vibrant, arty quarter of street murals and nightlife. Beyond the history and the postcard beauty, Cartagena is pure Caribbean: hot, colourful, rhythmic, with fresh seafood and the turquoise waters and white sands of the Rosario Islands a short boat ride offshore. It has grown popular and can feel touristy in the centre, but wander the walls at sunset or the back streets at night and its magic is undeniable. It makes the perfect start to a Colombia trip.
02How to experience it
Wander the walled old town and Getsemaní, especially in the evening, walking the ramparts at sunset and soaking up the plaza life, music, and food. Take a boat to the Rosario Islands for Caribbean beaches and snorkelling. Go in the drier months, and embrace the heat and rhythm.
From the locals
Cartagena draws the strongest superlatives in Colombia's threads — "Cartagena is one of the most beautiful places I've ever been to" — usually paired with Guatapé as the other must. Two practical notes travellers repeat: on the coastal run, "take the minibus between Cartagena and Santa Marta… I will pay the extra for the minibus every single time" over the public bus, which stops constantly. And on food, expectations should be calibrated: "food is underrated in my opinion, just gotta keep your expectations somewhat low — their chorizo and arroz frito is to die for, and their soups are all amazing."