The hook
One of the best-preserved ancient cities in the Mediterranean, where you walk a real Roman main street of marble past temples, terraced houses, and the soaring two-storey façade of a great library.
01Why it's worth it
Ephesus was one of the most important cities of the Greek and then Roman world, a major port and religious centre whose Temple of Artemis was counted among the seven wonders of the ancient world, though little of that temple remains. The city itself, though, is extraordinarily complete: you walk down a marble-paved street lined with the ruins of temples, fountains, and public buildings to the elegant reconstructed façade of the Library of Celsus, past a great theatre that held tens of thousands, and, if you pay extra, into the "terrace houses" where you can see the frescoes and mosaics of wealthy Roman homes under protective cover. Its harbour long ago silted up and left it stranded inland, which is why it was abandoned and so well preserved. It is exposed and popular, especially when cruise ships are in.
02How to experience it
Enter early or late to beat the heat and the cruise-tour crush, and walk the full length downhill from the upper gate to the library and theatre. Pay the extra for the terrace houses, which are the highlight and far quieter. Base in nearby Selçuk and see the lone remaining column of the Temple of Artemis.
From the locals
It sits on the route travellers rate most highly: "I took an incredible 2-week trip to Turkey, spending time in Istanbul, Cappadocia and Selçuk/Ephesus. Was hands down one of my favourite countries I've visited," one wrote — that three-stop shape being the standard first trip.
The honest counterweight from the same threads is about cost and hassle: "at one time it sounded like a cheap and cool destination… but now I only hear that it is really expensive, the tours and sites are not worth the ridiculous amount to get in, and it is full of scammers." Site entry fees have risen steeply, so budget for them rather than being surprised.