The hook
A vast cold desert of gravel plains, singing sand dunes, and red cliffs where the first dinosaur eggs were found, crossed by nomads and their camels and emptier than almost anywhere on earth.
01Why it's worth it
The Gobi is not the endless sand sea of cartoons but a huge, high, cold desert of gravel steppe, rocky mountains, and occasional dunes, and its emptiness is the point. Its landmarks are spread enormous distances apart: the Khongoryn Els, great "singing" dunes that hum in the wind and rise hundreds of metres; the Flaming Cliffs of Bayanzag, glowing red at sunset, where explorers in the 1920s found the first known dinosaur eggs; and the ice-filled canyon of Yolyn Am, improbably holding snow into summer. Between them, herders live in felt gers with camels, goats, and horses, and staying with them is part of the experience. Travel is slow and rough over trackless country, temperatures swing wildly, and comforts are few, but the scale, the silence, and the night skies are unforgettable.
02How to experience it
Go on a multi-day overland trip with a driver and guide, sleeping in ger camps or with herding families; there are few roads and no way to do it in a hurry. Climb the Khongoryn dunes at sunset, see the Flaming Cliffs, and ride a Bactrian camel. Pack for cold nights and dusty days.