The hook
A wealthy old castle town on the Japan Sea coast that came through history intact, with one of the country's three great gardens, preserved geisha and samurai quarters, and a tradition of gold leaf so refined the locals put it on ice cream.
01Why it's worth it
Kanazawa grew rich under a powerful feudal clan and, like Kyoto, was spared wartime bombing, so it kept a remarkable amount of its Edo-era fabric without Kyoto's crowds. Its centrepiece is Kenroku-en, counted among the three most celebrated gardens in Japan, a large stroll garden of ponds, teahouses, and pines braced against winter snow. Around it survive atmospheric old districts: the Higashi Chaya geisha quarter of wooden teahouses, and a samurai neighbourhood of earthen-walled lanes. The city has long produced most of Japan's gold leaf, which turns up gilding lacquerware, temples, and, cheerfully, soft-serve ice cream. Add a bustling seafood market and a striking contemporary art museum, and it makes a rewarding, less-trampled alternative to the famous old capitals.
02How to experience it
Spend a morning in Kenroku-en and the adjacent castle, then wander the Higashi Chaya teahouse district and the samurai quarter. Eat at the Omicho seafood market, and try the gold-leaf ice cream once for the novelty. It is an easy stop on the bullet-train line from Tokyo.