The hook
A dusty, friendly Sahel capital with an outsized cultural life, home to the largest film festival in Africa, which every two years turns the city into the beating heart of African cinema.
01Why it's worth it
Ouagadougou, the capital of Burkina Faso, punches far above its modest, low-rise, dusty appearance when it comes to culture. It is the host of FESPACO, the Pan-African Film and Television Festival, the biggest and most important celebration of African cinema in the world, which every odd-numbered year fills the city with filmmakers, screenings, and crowds, and has made this landlocked Sahel nation a surprising capital of African film. The city is also known for its crafts, especially bronze-casting done by the lost-wax method, and its lively markets, music, and warm, welcoming people, a reminder that Burkina Faso long had a reputation as one of the friendliest countries in the region. Tragically, in recent years the country has been engulfed by a jihadist insurgency and instability, and large parts of it are now dangerous, with travel strongly advised against; the security situation is serious and changeable. This entry records the cultural life of the capital, offered with a clear warning about the present dangers, in hope of calmer times.
02How to experience it
First and foremost, check the current security situation: much of Burkina Faso is unsafe and travel is strongly advised against. This records Ouagadougou's cultural life, above all the FESPACO film festival and its craft traditions, in hope of safer days. When conditions allow, the festival, markets, and bronze workshops are the heart of a visit.