The hook
Chile's contrasting central duo: a modern, orderly capital pressed against a wall of snow-capped Andes, and, over the coastal hills, a gloriously chaotic port city of clattering funiculars, tumbling painted houses, and street art.
01Why it's worth it
Central Chile pairs two very different cities an easy trip apart. Santiago, the capital, is one of South America's most developed and functional cities, a modern skyline and leafy, walkable neighbourhoods (bohemian Bellavista, historic Lastarria) set dramatically beneath the towering Andes, whose ski resorts are close enough for a day trip in winter; it has good museums (including a moving human-rights memorial to the Pinochet years), markets, and a growing food and wine scene, with the famous Casablanca and Maipo wine valleys on its doorstep. An hour and a half away on the coast, Valparaíso is its polar opposite and many travellers' favourite: a raffish, romantic old port sprawling up steep hills in a jumble of brightly-painted houses, reached by a network of antique funicular lifts (ascensores), its alleys covered in vibrant street art and murals, its cafés and bars full of poets and bohemians (Pablo Neruda kept a wonderfully eccentric house here). Together, the modern Andean capital and the colourful, arty port capture the range of Chile and make a rewarding few days before heading to the desert or Patagonia.
02How to experience it
Give Santiago a couple of days for its neighbourhoods, museums, markets, and a wine-valley day trip, with an Andes view (or ski day) if the season suits. Then head to Valparaíso to ride the funiculars, wander the mural-covered hills, see Neruda's house, and soak up the bohemian port atmosphere. Spring and autumn are kindest.