The hook
A small forested island in a jungle river, one of the most biodiverse spots in West Africa for its size, home to a dozen kinds of primate and the elusive, rarely-seen pygmy hippopotamus.
01Why it's worth it
Tiwai Island sits in the Moa River in the rainforest of southern Sierra Leone, and despite covering only a few square kilometres, this community-run sanctuary packs in extraordinary wildlife: it has one of the highest concentrations and diversity of primates in the world, with around eleven species, including chimpanzees, the striking black-and-white colobus, and the endangered Diana monkey, their calls filling the canopy. Hidden in its forests and along its riverbanks lives the pygmy hippopotamus, a small, secretive, endangered cousin of the common hippo found only in this corner of West Africa and very rarely glimpsed, along with rare forest birds and the tracks of other elusive creatures. Reached by dugout or motorboat, the island offers guided forest walks (by day and night), river trips to look for hippos, birds, and crocodiles, and simple tented accommodation, all managed with the surrounding communities as a model of grassroots conservation. It is a genuine slice of pristine West African rainforest and a highlight of adventurous travel in Sierra Leone.
02How to experience it
Reach Tiwai by boat and stay overnight in the island's simple camp to make the most of guided forest walks, night walks, and river trips in search of primates, birds, and the elusive pygmy hippo. Go in the dry season, and support the community conservation model. Pair it with the peninsula beaches for a full Sierra Leone trip.