The hook
Africa's oldest national park, a place of staggering drama: a volcano cradling one of the world's largest permanent lakes of molten lava, mountain gorillas in the forests, and rangers who have died defending it all.
01Why it's worth it
Virunga, in the east of the Democratic Republic of the Congo, is arguably the most biodiverse and dramatic protected area in Africa, and the oldest, established in 1925. It spans glaciated peaks, savanna, forest, and volcanoes, and shelters an extraordinary range of wildlife, including a population of the endangered mountain gorillas shared with neighbouring Rwanda and Uganda. Its signature is Mount Nyiragongo, an active volcano whose crater holds one of the largest and most active lava lakes on Earth, a churning, roaring cauldron of molten rock; climbing to the rim to camp overnight above the glowing lake was, when open, one of the most jaw-dropping experiences in African travel. But Virunga's story is inseparable from tragedy: it lies in a region wracked by decades of armed conflict, and hundreds of its rangers have been killed protecting it and its gorillas. The park has repeatedly had to close to visitors for safety, and eastern DRC remains dangerous, with travel widely advised against. This records an extraordinary place and the courage of those who guard it, with a clear warning about the present dangers.
02How to experience it
Understand first that eastern DRC is affected by serious ongoing conflict, the park frequently closes, and travel is widely advised against; the security situation must be checked carefully and current. This records Virunga's volcano, lava lake, and gorillas, and the sacrifice of its rangers. When and if it is safe and open, visits are arranged through the park authority; supporting the park's work is meaningful in the meantime.