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Westvleteren & the Hop Country

trappistabbeybeercyclinghopsflandersday-tripno-export
KindPoint
Depth
EffortTwo hours by train from Brussels to Poperinge, then bike or a 45-minute walk; a full day out
BestMay–September to cycle it comfortably; check the abbey café's opening days before travelling, they are limited
Why this rating · 6/12SingularityHoldStoryLocal loveSensoryCrowd tax

The hook

The one beer you cannot buy anywhere else — brewed by monks who refuse to distribute it — at the end of a bike ride through the hop fields that supply it.

01Why it's worth it

Saint Sixtus Abbey brews Westvleteren, and unlike every other Trappist brewery it has never agreed to sell into the trade. The monks brew only what covers the abbey's costs and no more, and the beer is sold from the abbey gate by prior reservation, or drunk on the spot at In de Vrede, the café across the road. Bottles do surface elsewhere at absurd markups; the monks disapprove, and the only honest way to drink it is to go.

What makes the trip rather than the beer is the getting there. You come out to Poperinge — Belgium's hop capital, where the fields are strung with the tall wire frames the vines climb — and cycle or walk the last stretch through farmland to a quiet, plain abbey with no visitor spectacle attached to it. There is no tour. There is a café, a car park, and monks who are not performing for anyone.

The wider Westhoek around it carries a heavier history: this is the Ypres Salient, and the fields you ride through are ringed with Commonwealth cemeteries and the Menin Gate half an hour away, where the Last Post has been sounded every evening since 1928. A day here can be pitched entirely at beer, or it can be the other thing, or both — they sit a few kilometres apart.

02How to experience it

Train from Brussels or Ghent to Poperinge, hire a bike at the station, ride out. Reserve at the abbey shop in advance if you want bottles to take away; otherwise drink at In de Vrede and eat the abbey cheese with it. Add Ypres on the way back if you want the history.

From the locals

The case is made in the r/travel Belgium thread with unusual force: "for anyone who remotely enjoys beer, you MUST make the trip out to Westvleteren. It has been rated by various beer sites and magazines as the best beer in the world. Westvleteren is one of six Trappist breweries in Belgium and the only one that doesn't distribute outside of their monastic grounds."

Their logistics are the ones this dossier follows: "I made the trip from Brussels and it included a 2 hour train ride each way. Once you get into the small town of Poperinge, you can rent bikes and cycle out to the monastery. If you want, you can also walk there, which takes about 45 minutes. The walk is very scenic, as you pass through the landscape and farmland upon which the hops are grown that are used in Westvleteren's beer."

Sources · https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Westvleteren_Brewery · https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poperinge · https://reddit.com/r/travel/comments/2orcee/destination_of_the_week_belgium/