The hook
On the edge of the capital, the restored mud-brick town where the Saudi state was born, a warren of earthen palaces and walls beside a palm-filled valley, now the historic counterpoint to Riyadh's glass towers.
01Why it's worth it
Diriyah was the original seat of the Al Saud family and the birthplace of the first Saudi state in the 18th century, and its old core, At-Turaif, is a striking district of Najdi mud-brick architecture, earthen palaces, mosques, and walls in a distinctive style, restored and opened as the kingdom's flagship heritage site, best seen lit up in the evening. It anchors a visit to the capital region, giving historical depth to a city otherwise known for its modernity: Riyadh itself offers the towering Kingdom Centre with its sky bridge, the excellent National Museum tracing Arabian history from prehistory through Islam, the old Masmak fortress at the heart of the story of the kingdom's founding, and, out of town, the dramatic cliff-edge viewpoint known as the Edge of the World. Together, restored old town and modern capital show the arc of the Saudi state, in a country only recently open to visitors.
02How to experience it
See the At-Turaif mud-brick district at Diriyah, ideally in the evening, and pair it with Riyadh's National Museum and Masmak fortress for the history. If you have a spare half-day and a 4x4 or tour, the Edge of the World cliffs outside the city are spectacular. Come in the cooler months.