The hook
An army base where soldiers trained for three wars is now 86 miles of trail across the hills above Monterey Bay.
01Why it's worth it
From 1917 to 1994 this rolling country behind the dunes was Fort Ord, an army post that trained soldiers for the World Wars, Korea, and Vietnam. When the base closed, its undeveloped back ranges, kept wild all those decades precisely because the army fired artillery across them, turned out to be something rare: nearly 15,000 acres of maritime chaparral, oak woodland, and vernal pools with almost nothing built on it. President Obama made it a national monument in 2012. Now more than 86 miles of trail run through the hills, busy with mountain bikers and quiet on foot, with long views out to the bay. The one honest catch: some backcountry stays fenced off while the army clears decades-old munitions, so you keep to the marked trails.
02How to experience it
The main trailheads are off Highway 68 at Badger Hills and along the west side near Seaside. It's free, and the network is big enough to pick a short loop or a long ride. There's little shade, so carry water and sun cover, and stay on the mapped trails given the ordnance closures. Spring is the time to come, when the chaparral flowers and the grass is still green; pair it with the aquarium or Point Lobos to round out a Monterey day.