The hook
One of the great cities of the Sahel, an ancient Hausa trading hub whose old town of earthen walls, vast markets, and centuries-old indigo dye pits offers a completely different Nigeria from the coastal megacities.
01Why it's worth it
Kano, in Nigeria's Muslim north, is one of the oldest and most historically important cities in West Africa, a Hausa kingdom and a major terminus of the trans-Saharan caravan trade for a thousand years, exchanging leather, cloth, and goods across the desert. Its character is Sahelian and Islamic, utterly distinct from the Christian and Yoruba-influenced south: remnants of the ancient city walls, the emir's palace, and a warren of an old town surround one of the largest and most vibrant markets in Africa, Kurmi market, a sprawling maze of crafts, textiles, leatherwork, and spices. Its most famous sight is the Kofar Mata dye pits, said to be centuries old and among the last traditional indigo-dyeing operations of their kind, where cloth is still dyed a deep blue in sunken pits using age-old methods. Kano offers a window into the deep history and living culture of the Sahel. Parts of northern Nigeria have had security concerns, so current advice should be checked, but for travellers seeking the historic, trans-Saharan face of the country, it is unmatched.
02How to experience it
Explore the old city, the emir's palace, the ancient walls, and above all the huge Kurmi market and the Kofar Mata indigo dye pits, ideally with a local guide. Dress and behave respectfully in this conservative Muslim city. Check current security advice for the north before travelling, and go in the cooler dry season.