The hook
An hour east of San Diego the desert gives way to a mile-high forest of vanilla-scented pines, dark enough at night that a university keeps its telescopes here.
01Why it's worth it
Most people don't picture San Diego county with a pine forest, but Mount Laguna sits at six thousand feet, the same as Tahoe, in a band of Jeffrey pine and oak that locals drive up to when the coast is grey or the desert is an oven. The Jeffrey pines really do smell of vanilla if you get your nose into the bark. The Pacific Crest Trail runs along the ridge, and the short climb up Garnet Peak ends at a sudden edge where the forest drops away to the Anza-Borrego desert five thousand feet below, one of the great abrupt views in Southern California. Because it's high and far from city light, San Diego State runs an observatory up here and holds public star parties on summer weekends, and the Milky Way comes out hard. It's the county's other climate, an hour from downtown.
02How to experience it
Take Interstate 8 east from San Diego to the Sunrise Highway and follow it up along the ridge, about an hour and a half all in. Garnet Peak is the signature short hike for the desert overlook, and the Big Laguna Trail loops the meadows for more. Check the SDSU observatory schedule if you want a star party, bring a layer since it's cool at altitude, and know it can snow up here in winter.