The hook
A crumbling, characterful old colonial town on a narrow island at the mouth of the Senegal River, once the capital of French West Africa, now faded, arty, and famous for its jazz, beside one of the world's great bird sanctuaries.
01Why it's worth it
Saint-Louis was founded by the French in the 17th century and served for a time as the capital of their whole West African empire, and its historic core, on a slender island in the Senegal River linked to the mainland by an iron bridge, is a UNESCO-listed ensemble of grid streets and weathered colonial buildings with wrought-iron balconies, atmospheric in their gentle decay. On the ocean spit beyond, the Guet Ndar fishing quarter teems with brightly-painted pirogues and one of the most vibrant fishing communities in the region. The town has a strong artistic and musical identity, hosting a renowned annual jazz festival that fills its streets with music. Just outside, the Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary, in the river delta, is one of the most important bird reserves on earth, a wintering ground for millions of migratory birds including vast colonies of pelicans and flamingos. Between faded colonial charm, a thriving fishing culture, jazz, and world-class birdlife, Saint-Louis is a distinctive and rewarding northern counterpoint to Dakar.
02How to experience it
Wander the colonial island and cross to the Guet Ndar fishing quarter for the pirogues and street life, ideally timing a visit to the jazz festival. Take a boat or drive to the Djoudj bird sanctuary for the pelican and flamingo colonies. It rewards a relaxed pace over a day or two.